About 15 km between Emmerich, Germany and Arnhem, Holland, a tabby kitten guards the middle of the road into Landgut de Panoven. Small but unafraid, he’s more interested in new visitors than in the Eurasian coots floating and diving like black ducks with higher-reaching white beaks and puffy fennel seed-like webbing on their feet. Their lake began as a hole dug out for clay. It’s off-season, so visitors mainly come for the rustic industrial site’s restaurant or events. But over the summer, they come to see the old, clay sauna — building, machine, and stove in one.
[Read more from the latest in my gratitude essay series at Rebel News.]